Leitfaden: Kauf, Pflege und Service unserer japanischen Vintage-Uhren

Guide: Buying, caring for and servicing our Japanese vintage watches

Information about our vintage watches

We select each of our vintage watches with the utmost care, thoroughly inspect them, and have them professionally serviced where necessary. Before a watch is offered for sale, it is tested. This ensures you receive a piece of Japanese watchmaking history in certified condition.

Maintenance, original parts and reconditioning

Maintenance and original parts

  • Batteries and seals are replaced as needed.

  • We carry out repairs exclusively with original parts – unless otherwise stated. Since some models are up to 75 years old, it is possible that non-original parts were used in previous repairs – although this is rather rare in Japan due to the previously very good availability of original parts.

  • We generally do not polish the watches in order to preserve their originality, patina, and collector value.

Material care and preparation

  • Leather watch straps are usually replaced. If the original strap is still in very good condition, we disinfect it and treat it with high-quality leather care products.

  • We thoroughly clean and disinfect steel bracelets, check links and clasps, and repair them if necessary.

  • We usually replace spring bars.

  • For battery replacements, we exclusively use high-quality brand-name batteries (e.g., Maxell, Murata (formerly Sony) or Renata).

Care instructions for your vintage watch

To ensure you enjoy your vintage watch for a long time, please note the following points:

  • Avoid moisture: Vintage watches are often no longer waterproof. Do not wear them while showering, swimming, or in humid environments.

  • Avoid shocks: Strong impacts or falls can damage the movement or impair its accuracy.

  • Date adjustment: On many mechanical watches, the date should not be manually adjusted between approximately 9 PM and 3 AM, as the date wheel is engaged during this time. Adjusting the date manually can cause damage.

  • Winding (manual winding): Turn the crown slowly and evenly until a slight resistance is felt – please do not over-wind.

  • Automatic watches: If you haven't worn your watch for a few days, it is sufficient to wind it briefly by hand or to start it by gently swiveling it.

  • Avoid magnetic fields: Keep your watch away from speakers, magnetic closures, smartphones or tablets to avoid timekeeping deviations.

  • Battery replacement: For quartz watches, the battery should be replaced every 2-3 years to prevent damage from leaking batteries.

  • Storage: Store your watch in a dry, temperature-controlled place, away from direct sunlight and strong temperature fluctuations.

  • Care: Occasionally clean the case and strap with a soft, dry cloth. Please do not use chemical cleaning agents.

Elevator and automation – briefly explained

Manual winding:

  • Turn the crown slowly and evenly.

  • Stop immediately if you feel even slight resistance.

  • A daily elevator ride improves accuracy.

Automatic:

  • If the watch has been lying flat for an extended period, we recommend winding it by hand approximately 15 times before wearing it to avoid inconsistencies in its timekeeping.

Note regarding our product photos

Our product photos are never digitally edited. We want you to see the watch in its true, unaltered condition – with all its details, strengths, and any signs of wear.

Therefore:

  • We do not retouch scratches, patina, or surface features.

  • Colors, dials, hands and cases are not softened or artificially brightened.

  • To protect the privacy of future owners, parts of the serial number on some models are not digitally removed, but covered with a small adhesive label.

This way the image remains unaltered – and the serial number is protected at the same time.
This approach is deliberate, as only unedited photos give you an honest picture of the watch's actual condition and prevent misunderstandings. If you would like additional photos or detailed shots, please feel free to contact us. However, the best option is always to view the watch in person at our location.

Unique pieces, custom models and birthday watches

Each of our vintage watches is unique – with its own history, character, and charm. No two models are alike, and that's precisely what makes them so appealing.

If you're looking for a specific model, or perhaps a birthday watch from a particular production month or year (this is usually possible with Seiko and Citizen watches using the serial number), please feel free to contact us. We'll do our best to find a suitable piece for you – whether as a personal collector's item or a special gift.

Birthday watches – a personal gift idea

Many vintage Japanese watches can be dated to the exact month and year of production. This makes them exceptionally personal gifts, for example for milestone birthdays, anniversaries, or special life events.

Which models allow this?

  • Seiko (vintage and many modern models):
    The first digit of the serial number represents the year, the second the month (1–9 = January–September, O/N/D = October/November/December).
    Example: 54xxxx → April 1965 or 1975 (caliber and model help with the assignment).
  • Citizen (vintage models from the 60s–80s):
    The serial number follows a similar pattern. First digit = year, second and third digits = month, followed by the sequential production number.

    Why a birthday watch is so special:
  • It is a historical artifact, created during the same period as the recipient.

  • It conveys a very personal touch and often becomes a lifelong companion.

  • Japanese vintage watches combine reliability with timeless aesthetics.

  • Many models already have a high collector's value – a birthday watch with a matching production date is, in our experience, particularly appreciated.

If you're looking for a watch from a specific month or year, just let us know. Thanks to our contacts in Japan and Europe, we can search specifically for suitable models.

Fitting and personal assessment

Especially with special or higher-quality models, we recommend that you try on the watch in person and examine it closely.

Photos cannot always fully capture the actual condition – both positive and negative. A personal inspection will help you get a better feel for the size, dial, patina, and wearing comfort.

Age, spare parts and complaints

Despite careful inspection, vintage watches can have hidden or suddenly appearing defects. Spare parts – especially for models from the 1950s to 1970s – are often difficult to obtain or very expensive (e.g., original mainsprings for certain Seiko models can cost several hundred euros).

Should a complaint arise, it may therefore happen that instead of a repair, we can only refund the purchase price if a repair is no longer technically or economically viable.

We place the utmost importance on preserving the original condition, authenticity, and character of each watch. Each of our vintage watches is therefore a unique piece with soul – not a standardized new product.

Pricing and market development for vintage watches

Prices for high-quality vintage watches – especially from Seiko and Citizen – have risen significantly in Japan in recent years. While there used to be noticeable price differences between Japan and Europe, these have largely disappeared today.

At specialized vintage dealers in Japan, prices are now often at the same level as in Germany, and sometimes even higher.

Reasons for this include:

  • Global demand for vintage Japanese watches has risen sharply – in Europe, the USA and increasingly in Asia.

  • Particularly well-preserved examples that are professionally maintained and free of foreign parts are becoming increasingly rare.

  • The effort required for testing, maintenance and spare parts procurement has increased considerably, as original parts are often only available in limited quantities or at high prices.

  • High-end models often incur additional costs for servicing, spare parts, and authentication to ensure that the watch corresponds as closely as possible to its original condition.

Conversely, this market trend means that well-preserved vintage Japanese watches are now showing stable or even increasing value. Thanks to the growing international recognition of Seiko, Citizen, Orient, and other Japanese brands, the likelihood of your watch retaining its value or appreciating in the long term is greater than ever before.

Our prices therefore reflect not only the technical and optical condition of the watch, but also:

  • the authentic origin,

  • the professional examination and preparation,

  • the rarity of certain variants,

  • as well as the current market situation in Japan and internationally.

    With every vintage watch, you receive a collectible original whose value is based on genuine craftsmanship and growing global demand.

Operating vintage watches – key points

Bilingual weekday display (Japanese/English)

Many Japanese watches – especially Seiko, Citizen, and Orient – ​​feature a bilingual day-of-the-week display. The date changes automatically, and the day of the week can be switched between Japanese (月, 火, 水…) and English (Mon, Tue, Wed…).

Here's how to set the language:

  1. Pull the crown to the first detent position (position for date/day of the week, not the full time setting position).

  2. Carefully press or turn the day of the week.

    • depending on the caliber, by turning counterclockwise or

    • slight pressing of the crown (e.g., on certain Citizen calibers).

  3. Cycle through the weekdays until the desired language appears (usually alternating JP → EN → JP …).

  4. Set the time correctly and push the crown back in.

Important:

  • The language change should not be performed between approximately 8:00 PM and 4:00 AM, as the date wheel is engaged during this time.

  • If you are unsure which method your model uses, please feel free to contact us.

Setting the date on older watches without quick-set date

Many older Seiko, Citizen, and Orient models from the 1950s to the early 1970s do not have a quick-set date function. The date can only be advanced by changing from day to night.

Proceed:

  • Turn the hands forward past midnight until the date jumps forward.

  • Then turn the hands back to approximately 8:00 PM.

  • Turn past midnight again until the date jumps forward.

  • Repeat the process until the correct date is reached.

Important instructions:

  • Never change the date between 8 PM and 4 AM.

  • Do not use force – if there is resistance, stop immediately and position the clock outside of the restricted time (e.g. at 6:00 AM).

Other typical features of vintage Japanese watches

  • Many Seiko calibers from the 1960s and 70s feature a semi-quickset mechanism operated by pressing the crown. The crown is spring-loaded and must not be pressed excessively or tilted.

  • Seiko's 61xx calibers (e.g., Lord Matic, King Seiko, Grand Seiko) have a delicate date mechanism. Turning the date too quickly past midnight can damage the gears.

  • Automatic rotor noise is normal in many Seiko movements (e.g. 6309, 7009, 7S26) and not a defect.

  • Older Citizen “Parawater” or “Jet Automatic” models can no longer be considered waterproof – even after replacing the seals.

  • Hacking (stop-seconds) works only to a limited extent or not at all on many 40-60 year old machines.

  • Large gait deviations on the first day after prolonged bed rest are normal; the amplitude only stabilizes after a few hours of wear.

  • Day/date changes often do not occur exactly at midnight, but rather within a period between approximately 11:30 pm and 2:00 am.

  • Parts availability is limited; often only NOS parts or salvaged parts are available. Some repairs are technically possible, but not economically viable.

Further important information on the use of vintage watches

The vintage watch you purchased is likely several decades old and consists of fine mechanical components. To ensure your watch runs as reliably as possible and brings you joy for many years to come, please also note the following:

Wear of lubricating oils

Over the years, the oils used in the movement lose their properties. If a watch is used for a long time without servicing, metal parts run against each other dry. This can:

  • impair the accuracy of the timekeeping

  • accelerate wear and tear

  • This will significantly increase the cost of subsequent repairs.

We generally recommend a revision every 4–6 years – depending on the model and usage patterns.

Risk of component damage

If lubrication is lacking for an extended period of time, components such as:

  • Shoots,

  • Cones,

  • feathers,

  • gearshift lever or

  • Chronograph components

They may break or wear out permanently. This can be particularly problematic with rare vintage models, as certain spare parts are now difficult or even impossible to obtain.

Decline in timekeeping accuracy

A watch may appear to be running correctly on the outside, but still:

  • pursue strongly

  • proceed forcefully

  • stop or

  • exhibit an irregular amplitude.

This is a typical sign of aging oils, contamination, or the beginning of wear and tear.

Loss of water resistance

Almost all vintage watches are considered not waterproof, even if they were originally designed to be. Aging seals, cases, and crystals mean that even small amounts of moisture can penetrate.

Never allow the watch to come into contact with water. We recommend not wearing the watch in very humid environments or when sweating heavily (e.g., under a shirt cuff in summer or while playing sports in tropical climates). Condensation under the glass is always a warning sign.

Shocks, magnetism and typical sources of error

  • Vintage watches are sensitive to shocks, drops and harsh vibrations (sports, cycling on uneven roads, strong motorcycle or car vibrations, working with heavy tools).

  • Many vintage watches are easily magnetized. Proximity to smartphones, speakers, magnetic clasps, etc. should be avoided.

  • If your watch suddenly runs fast, it may be magnetized. Demagnetization is quick and easy – feel free to contact us.

Fix minor problems yourself – with the right tools

Some minor problems can be easily fixed yourself. All interventions are undertaken at your own risk – if you are unsure, please ask.

Important principle:
Please use only high-quality tools. Mistakes when changing batteries, straps, spring bars, or opening the case almost always result from cheap or imprecise tools.

  • poorly sharpened spring bar tools,

  • imprecise case openers,

  • soft metals that slip,

  • Fork tines that are too thick or too thin.

Such tools can:

  • scratching the casing,

  • Horns damage,

  • Round off screw heads,

  • Spring bars become deformed.

If tools from classic Swiss manufacturers are too expensive for you, we carry affordable yet professional tools from the Japanese company Meikosha (MKS). We would be happy to advise you on these.

Battery replacement, strap replacement, spring bars, demagnetization, acrylic glass

  • Battery replacement should only be performed using brand-name batteries and suitable tools, without risk of short circuits and without removing intact seals.

  • Strap changes and spring bar replacements are best done with a precise spring bar tool; check spring bars regularly.

  • Demagnetization is only necessary for mechanical watches, not for quartz or hybrid movements.

  • Minor scratches on acrylic glass can be removed with Polywatch or similar polish.

  • Polishing cases should be done very carefully and not on valuable vintage references with sharp edges.

If your watch stops or runs significantly slow, a quick check is worthwhile (observe the winding mechanism, rate, and magnetization). If the problem persists, we'll be happy to help.

Service, repairs and spare parts for Japanese watches

Should your vintage watch require servicing or repair, we will gladly assist you with professional restoration – both in Germany and in Japan.

  • For repairs and overhauls in Japan, we work with specialized watchmaking companies that have decades of experience with vintage watches from Seiko, Citizen and Orient.

  • These workshops are equipped with original testing tools, spare parts and calibration documentation that are hardly available outside of Japan.

  • Upon request, we will handle the entire coordination – from assessment and shipping to the return process – and inform you in advance about costs and duration.

  • In parallel, we are building up our own stock of original spare parts so that we can offer repairs in Germany according to Japanese standards in the future.

If you need a repair, overhaul, or technical assessment, just get in touch. We'll work together to determine whether the work would be better carried out in Germany or Japan.

Note regarding JDM models (Japan Domestic Market)

Our JDM (Japan Domestic Market) models are watches produced exclusively for the Japanese market and officially sold there. These models are generally not available through regular retail channels in Europe and are sourced directly from Japan by us.

Procurement and pricing

We usually buy JDM models at the normal Japanese retail price from authorized dealers.

Discounts, as are common in European markets, are rare.

The selling prices reflect not only the quality but also the limited availability as well as import and shipping costs.

Warranty and service

JDM models usually only have a manufacturer's warranty limited to Japan.

This generally does not apply outside of Japan.

We will help you with the processing in the event of a warranty claim, but we must point out that shipments to Japan may incur additional time and costs.

Exclusivity and collector value

JDM models are characterized by high manufacturing quality, special color variations, and limited series that are rarely available outside of Japan. They are therefore highly valued by collectors – not only for their rarity, but also for their typical Japanese aesthetic and precision.

In short:

  • JDM models are sold exclusively in Japan.

  • We usually obtain them through authorized dealers at the Japanese retail price.

  • The manufacturer's warranty is usually only valid in Japan.

  • We will gladly assist you with warranty or service claims upon request.

  • JDM models are exclusive collector's items with a special appeal.

If you have any questions about a specific model or are looking for a particular JDM model, please feel free to contact us – we will try to find it for you in Japan.

Author: FB

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